Basic Building Introduction - How to build a Koi Pond

Part I. Counting the Cost

Building an outdoor koi pond is by no means a small project. Even if you don’t have plans to landscape your entire yard into a plush garden with an elaborate pond as a centerpiece, and instead have in mind a small pond tucked into the corner of your yard, this is still true. There are moving parts that if not taken into account can significantly complicate, even frustrate your enthusiastic efforts and leaving you feeling discouraged and overwhelmed. As with anything, a degree of planning and counting the cost is involved.

Once we get past the excitement that comes with deciding that we want to build an outdoor koi pond, the next logical step is to find out if this is feasible. Do you have the time and the resources to devote to this project? Do you have the proper space to incorporate this pond into your garden or backyard? What sort of research have you done on outdoor koi ponds in order to have a clear idea what sort of pond you would like to install?

You will have to consider what this project will mean in cost of materials, manpower and in subsequent expenses associated with general upkeep of the pond as well as those associated with the care of your koi. Taking these necessary first steps before you go out and buy materials will save you both time and extra expense in the long run and leave you feeling that you spent your money wisely and to maximum effect in bringing this beautiful project to life.

Some of the following points should be considered before you commence with your building project. They are mentioned here only briefly as each will be covered at greater length in the following chapters.

• What is your budget?
• Excavation -Do you hire a contractor or do it yourself?
• What kind of materials will you use?
• Pond design -Basic or Complex?
• Filtration system -biological filters, waterfalls for aeration
• Water Maintenance -cost of chemicals, water testing, etc.
• Landscaping choices

Part II. Consulting the Experts

Another important aspect to planning this project is seeking out those who have already taken the plunge and currently have outdoor koi ponds. One would think that this would be an obvious step, but many move forward blindly without taking the necessary time in order to gain a clear picture of what they will be getting into.

Koi clubs, for instance, are a viable means to gain access to private ponds and gardens. By doing this you can take some of the uncertainty out of your design choices and also find out what sort of filtration and plumbing system work the best -or at the very least get a stronger grasp of the variations and to make informed decisions and, hopefully, avoid costly mistakes. Online groups and owners of fish stores that deal with koi and know about their natural habitats as well as how to manage them in the artificial pond environment can provide valuable insights into both the process of building as well as share some of the pitfalls one can encounter. If you feel you have researched the subject thoroughly enough and, hopefully, gotten some advice from those who know the ponds then you are ready to begin.

Part III: A Healthy Environment:

Several considerations have to be taken into account when building a Koi pond. Some of the most important aspects of the design that cannot be overlooked include:

1. The size of the pond -You want it to hold a minimum or 500 gallons of water, and most Koi experts will tell you bigger is better.
2. The Depth is also a concern -Think of 36 inches as a minimum, but deeper is also considered better.
3. Straight walls -These not only provide a larger potential area for your Koi, but also act as protection from local predators.
4. One or more bottom drains, and a bottom that slopes towards those drains and away from any incoming water (such as any waterfalls you add)
5. Some form of a surface skimmer to help keep the pond clean. Some Koi experts have suggested that a pool or spa skimmer with a "weir" work the best.
6. A biological filtration system. Maybe the most challenging part of building a Koi pond is the responsibility it creates. For the pond to be successful, you need to install an entire functional ecosystem. A good pond should be able to manage to strike a good balance between:

A) Aesthetics
B) Ease and effectiveness of maintenance
C) A healthy environment for the Koi

For many Koi pond owners, the process of creating, and then maintaining, that balance can create a calming peaceful effect, akin to meditation. By building a Koi pond, you will be creating a miniature world of water, plants, and animals. The location of the pond is obviously important -you don't want it to look out of place, since that would interrupt the peaceful feelings that are a large reward to creating and maintaining a Koi pond. The far majority of Koi owners will tell you that the pond should be somewhere that can receive mild lighting at night, be visible from the house, and have a place where you can sit and relax nearby. The tranquility of the Koi pond is pointless, after all, if you can't enjoy it!

As stated earlier, in order to have a healthy Koi pond environment you need a biological filter, a source of aeration, a circulation pump, and enough space so your Koi are free to mature and grow without constraint. The filtration system purifies the water and keeps waste out of the pond. An aerator, such as a waterfall, pushes air into the water. This has several benefits, as the fish will have oxygen and the aerator prevents the water from stagnating. A waterfall is probably one of the most popular methods, as it also adds an additional aesthetic quality to your Koi pond.

The circulation pump should move the water through the filter and aerator. This cycle is necessary for your Koi pond and is the backbone of your newly created ecosystem. This will lead to ongoing expenses in electricity, as well as filter materials, and needs to be balanced to be affordable to you while keeping the pond and Koi healthy. The best way to figure out how to design your Koi pond to be affordable while keeping these necessities in mind is to consult an expert, or another pond owner. This way the pond design you install is as efficient as possible while remaining affordable.

Earlier you saw the recommended numbers at 500 gallons. You can have a smaller pond, but there are still some limitations on minimum size. The absolute minimum depth is at least three feet, and must be able to hold 50 to 60 gallons of water, which is recommended for every eight to ten inch Koi. Keep in mind, though, that it is best to have at least three Koi since they are social fish that do best in a community.

On the plus side, your Koi will not grow to be larger than the pond can support. Since the environment will dictate their eventual size, you should figure out what size you want them to attain before planning the size of your pond. If you're not quite sure which way to go, plan to make your pond a little bigger rather than smaller, and for most Koi pond owners that tends to turn out to be the right size for them.

Another matter to concern yourself with is local animals. Depending where you live, there are various animals that might act as predators including, but not limited to: cats, ducks, raccoons, or other birds. When you design a Koi pond, you will want to design the landscaping so your fish will have hiding places from these, or any other type of predator.

Part IV: Building & Landscaping Considerations:

First and foremost, before you start building, it is an absolute necessity that you call your local building inspector to learn what the local building codes are, and to find out what you actually can do. There would be nothing worse than having large plans laid out for your first Koi pond, only to find out that after ordering your materials, your plan is in violation of the local building codes. The rules vary from place to place. In some areas, all ponds are classified as swimming pools, and so have the exact same requirements. Other places have limits on the size of the pond, allowed drainage, above or below ground, or even whether you can do it yourself or need to hire professionals. You will usually need to stay a certain distance from the property lines. Some of these rules may constrain your options and so affect what you decide to do.

Before you decide where your pond will go, find out about buried utilities. Most areas will have a free service where you can call them up and they will come out and mark your lawn wherever your buried gas, electric, phone, cable, water and other lines are. This is crucial. Do not guess, don't assume you can figure it out: let the professionals do their jobs. Bravado isn't worth your life.

There are several options for what materials to use in constructing a pond, though the most popular seems to be EPDM liner. Concrete and Fiber glass can also be used to line ponds, though that can be expensive to install and much more planning needs to go into materials, design, and everything
else. Liner ponds tend to be less costly. Many liners available have a life expectancy of ten to twenty years. The life expectancy varies from one manufacturer to another, and so the best option here is to look up the nearest Koi club and join up. There you will be able to find individuals with the expertise on who to buy from and which brand suits your need.

If you decide to go this route and buy a liner pond, make sure to dig the pond before you purchase the liner. This is very important because now you can accurately measure the pond and purchase the proper sized liner. Otherwise if your original idea was for a pond that measured 10'x10'x4' but then part way through you changed your mind and ended up digging a 10'x 15'x5' pond, you would now be stuck with a liner that is too small and everything would be messed up, including measurements for other essential equipment such as filters and pumps.

While speaking briefly about filters and pumps, one piece of equipment very few ponds have, but is useful, is a protein skimmer. These help reduce the amount of organic wastes that come from the foam under your waterfall, uneaten food, etc. Also, you would be amazed at the surprising amount of debris that ends up in the bottom of the pond. It is strongly recommend a bottom drain be installed.

Location has a big factor in protecting your Koi from predators. For example, a single Great Blue Heron is capable of eating over one hundred six-inch Koi in just a single meal. Most Koi owners don't like the idea of bird netting (and understandably so, since it detracts dramatically from the overall appearance) then when you design your Koi pond you need to figure in some type of a structure, like a pergola, that is built over the pond. These also have the added advantage of giving your Koi much needed shade, while (if done right) not detracting from any of the natural beauty and calmness a Koi pond should be able to provide an owner.

Part V: Oxygen Sources

Waterfalls:

Oxygen comes from the movement of water. Koi are not meant to be in stagnant water, only in water with movement, since water will also bring the extra oxygen they need. A waterfall is not only the most efficient way to supply this oxygen, but it is also very visually appealing, not to mention the beautiful sounds a waterfall makes, one of the few types of sounds that can send you into a meditative bliss. A fountain can also work, as does any method of exposing water to the air, but a fountain can disturb the water surface so much that one cannot view the Koi, which really defeats the purpose.

The Koi must have oxygen and the biological filter needs even twice the amount that the Koi do. They also must have oxygen 24 hours a day. This is critical. A power outage of more than half a day (12 hours) will result in your Koi coming to the surface gasping for air, and eventually dying. Your first thought might be, what about plants providing oxygen at night? Nope. Plants provide oxygen during the day when there is sunlight, but use up oxygen at night. Therefore plants are:

1. Competing with Koi for oxygen at night
2. Causing stress to the Koi by affecting more rapid pH changes between day and night. Plants utilize carbon dioxide during the day but excrete it after
dark. This does not mean that you cannot have water plants in your Koi pond; it is possible to strike up a perfect balance, though many truly hardcore Koi enthusiasts do not have plants in their ponds because:

• The Koi hide under them
• They encourage the Koi to spawn and lay eggs that attach to the plants
• As the Koi grow, they eat the plants. What are the ideal requirements of a waterfall? The longer and broader the waterfall, the greater the aeration. This is the goal, and this is what you want. The larger the area of water surface broken up by the waterfall entering the pond, the better. The entrance area of the waterfall into the pond needs to be a direct drop of a few inches otherwise the water will shoot directly across the surface and two things can happen:

A. It will not mix oxygen into the depths, and
B. It will roughen the water surface thereby obstructing the viewing of the Koi. Do not forget: Waterfall needs to run 24 hours a day, even at night.

Water Jets:

Koi are a fish whose natural habitat is a running stream, meaning that a great Koi pond is one that does everything possible to simulate their natural environment. In a water current provided by jets, the Koi swim more, building up their strength, and therefore improving their shape, their health, and
their resistance to disease. It also minimizes dead areas, and pushes debris toward the bottom drains.

Water jets should be added in addition to a waterfall. To make a jet, T-off a one half to one-inch flexible PVC pipe from the pipe returning filtered water to the waterfall. Put in a valve to control the amount of flow on each pipe going to a jet. It is ideal to have at least two jets, one 18 inches deep and one at a deeper level. A pond four feet deep or more should have a bottom jet. In the winter, when Koi are inactive, shut off the deep-water jets.

The water jets need to all be pointed in the same direction, so the water current all flows in the same direction. The experts contend that Koi all tend to swim counter-clockwise. Therefore, this is the best direction to direct the jets. Coordinate this with the waterfall so that the two are not opposing each other.

Jumpers:

Koi tend to jump at times. This is especially true when:

1. Koi are new.
2. New Koi are put in the pond in the evening.
3. Koi have parasites.
4. Water quality is poor, irritating their exteriors or gills. Almost all Koi owners at some point have gone out in the morning to find one of their Koi on the lawn. Koi can be revived even after out of the water more than an hour. Sometimes, by working their gills under the waterfall the Koi will revive, even
after looking very stiff, dry, and dead.

The following encourages Koi to stay in the pond even if they do jump:

• Keep the water level six inches down from the top of the pond edge.
• Do not slope the sides of the pond but have them go straight down for at least the first two feet of depth. This prevents a running start by the Koi.
• Some even put a lip overlapping the edge of the pond so that if the Koi do zoom along the sides and jump, they will hit the lip and stay in the pond.
• If Koi do manage to jump out, they will try to flop back in.

You want to minimize the elevation of the pond edge, keeping the surrounding water out but still allowing an errant Koi to flop back into the pond.

Part VI: Filters

One very interesting filter is called a "bubble bead filter" and the smaller model looks like a big hourglass that stands six feet tall. The newer model has the hourglass part enclosed so the whole thing actually looks like a water heater. There are many floating beads in it and as water flows up through this
contraption debris is trapped. There are many variations as far as size and shape, but the principles are the same.

Bacteria form on the small fiberglass balls and serve the purpose of a biological filter. The beauty of the filter is that all you have to do to clean it is cut the pump off. Open a valve or two to drain the filter and you are done with your maintenance of the filter. You don't have to clean brushes, or filter pads.

The down side of the bubble bead filter is that if the pump is idle for 45 minutes or so the useful bacteria die and anaerobic bacteria multiply. There are those who believe that toxic material can be produced in the filter and can, under proper circumstances, be harmful to your fish. One problem that developed with the earlier bubble bead filters is that if the owner did not clean frequently enough, the beads would clump up in the top of the filter and needed to be broken loose mechanically. Since then many of the newer filters have air pumps, or water pumps inside that force air or water into the
beads to break them loose. It is so easy to clean that a daily cleaning usually only takes two or three minutes, making that part of maintenance much easier.